"If you go down to the Woods today...."

***Miles travelled today: 170

***Total Miles: still to be calculated

***States travelled through: Wyoming and Montanna

Well, having slept soundly after last night's escapades (and wow, what a fun night it was - almost like being 'adult children' playing out all night); we duly headed for the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway recommended to us by Chef Cody from the dude ranch we stayed at earlier this week. He had been full of stories including one, where as a very young wrangler,he and others had driven cattle from Montanna through the Beartooth Mountains to Cody. Well, we thought we'd follow his route today but luckily for us, it has been recently tarred and the journey easier, but not less scenic. The highway took us through mountain scapes that were vast and densely wooded,steeped and flat and at times resonated with the forlorn look of charred tree trunks - the evidence of a forest fire almost a decade ago. It was just simply quite incredible to drive through and although we only covered 170 miles today,the driving (done by Linz) needed some serious s-bend negotiating :) and frequent stops - not only photographic opportunities but sometimes, just to 'stop and look and let the tailbacks pass' (drivers in Wyoming really like to be up your b*tt when driving and don't even consider leaving a two second gap - that's just for filling by another car!).

We finally saw what is called 'Beartooth Mountain' which is still partially covered in snow, but if you were to imagine a bear grinning at you, you would notice that lovely shiny incisor wouldn't you? Well, that's exactly how sharp the mountain looks and the road just winds itself around it.....stunning.

Anyway, by this stage you might be wondering where this drive was taking us - we were heading west towards 'Yellowstone National Park' so that we could cut south to our current destination which will be our base for two days. This end of the Park isn't infamous for it's steaming geysers, sulphuric smell or thundering waterfalls, but for it's animals and so we hoped to see a few on my list (Linz says I always get really excited when out scouting - not sure if I get more excited at actually seeing the animal or 'poop-reading' And Then Finding the animal!).....what an adventure!

.....and what a delight!

Our first gift was that of a Black Bear that decided to cross our path in order to get away from the 'bear-jam' it had caused when crossing the road. We watched as it calmly grazed and foraged for 'stuff' eventually settling on the bugs inside a log. We could hear the sounds of it clawing and of it's mouth pulling at the wood to expose the nice fat juicy treasures that lay beneath. We decided to move on and allow others the opportunity of watching as we had and in so doing, we discovered calcite rocks that were so stark against the backdrop that we just had to stop and look again....

Well, no sooner were we on our way when we were discovered by the 'Daddy of all daddies - the Bison Bull'! We very quickly contemplated closing the window just in case he showed any interest but true to form, we opted to leave it open. Wow - are they huge or what ? Suddenly a 4x4 appeared piddly in comparison as he sauntered past, showing only a mild interest in the cars that had suddenly stopped around us....my goodness, you know when you've seen the Bigboy! That's another two off the list !!

What we were to see next, was something truly remarkable. We heard it before seeing it. We'd been following this river and there before us was a small herd of Elk cows with their young / new calves making their way across the river towards us. We stopped along with other cars, to watch and listen as a cow mewed and encouraged her calf to cross with her, but it appeared uncertain, trying but backing away. The more she mewed, the more it cried and she eventually returned and nuzzled it, whilst others managed to cross over. People whispered and remained still - knowing they had witnessed something beautiful and special. The only phrase I would have for this experience is 'to be in awe' . I guess we were both 'in awe' and bound, like others to this event.

....I realise I don't need a list of 'must and want to sees'. What we've seen today far surpasses that list, invalidates it. Tomorrow we'll accept what nature decides to share with us again.

Linz is fast asleep and I'm surprised she hasn't moved as it's thundering and lightening again outside (it has been a long drive and eventful day). She has also just begun to snore gently and so I've turned off the sofa light so that the room can experience the light from outside. I love thunder and lightening as it makes me come alive and sometimes (like now), when it booms; I just want to 'roar right back' ..... On that note, I think I'll stop blogging and just 'sit, watch and listen' as nature again, shares her final gift for the evening.

(and oops - before I forget, Sus - you need to place a sticker on West Yellowstone).

"She think's my truck's sexy"

***Miles travelled today: to be worked out

***Total Miles: not sure, but alot now

***States travelled through: still in Wyoming

We checked out of the Dude Ranch and were on our way by 08h30, having said good-bye to some new friends whom we hope to keep in contact with. We did not have far to go today as we had booked into a hotel in Cody, about 30 miles from the ranch, as we wanted to attend the Rodeo tonight...Cody is the 'Capital of Rodeo' and 'the place' to see it. After breakfast at the 'Irma Hotel' - made famous by Bill Cody in his 'hey-day' and apparently the place to be ( in his hey-day) and some people, who may have been there in his hey-day, looked like they were still there today serving breakfast. One man in particular appeared to have modelled himself on the latter pictures of what Bill Cody looked like.

After breakfast, we went to the Buffalo Bill Museum where we explored a number of 'smaller museums' including one on the geology of Yellowstone (although we still can't tell you why the geysers are there and what makes them work...Come on Cec' - we need a comment about the geological composition of geysers!); one on the Plains Indian Tribes and one, of course, on Buffalo 'Bill' Cody.

We checked into the hotel early afternoon having already purchased our ticket's for tonight's rodeo (Jay was really excited). Due to the fact we have been so busy these last few weeks, laundry is the last thing on our list, so this afternoon it just had to be done; thankfully this hotel has a huge guest laundry facility and at one point, we had 3 dryers and 1 washer on the go. We now have clean and dry clothes...

This evening was spent at the rodeo, complete with country and western music - the lyrics of which have to make you smile (hence the title of today's blog). The rodeo was an experience - Jay had done her research and discovered that we needed to sit in the Buzzard's Roost Section as this is the area where they sort everything out and you get to see the cowboys readying themselves for the horses and bulls. There were some serious tense moments, kids as young as 12 were riding bulls, which looked a bit scary. The most amusing point of the evening came at 10pm when it was the end of the two hour long rodeo and Jay couldn't quite believe it was finished, wanting to stay for some more. We met another American couple who were sitting next to us and who explained things but also had a few funny stories of their own.

We are up early again tomorrow morning as we have planned a route into Yellowstone that takes us through the Beartooth mountains. This was recommended by Chef Cody from the Dude Ranch.

Suzi - today's sticker needs to go on a place called CODY ... hope you are keeping up with your stickers on your map. We are nearly all the way on the other side, but we will be going up your map soon.

If you fall off your horse - get back on!!!

***Miles travelled today: More miles on horseback...

***Total Miles:

***States travelled through: Still in Wyoming...

Okay - so our morning started off real 'cowboy' style... and I tried the Biscuits and gravy for breakfast as the chef was insistent - saying that his would be the best... well - it was okay - but not something that I need to try again... but I can see why they may have been eaten in cowboy days... with the 'chuck wagon' needing to carry supplies for weeks on end... biscuits... (English scones) would have hardened and the gravy would have been used to soften them... don't see the point of eating them now though... 'Cowboy Days'... to us seems like 'yester year'... but being on this ranch, and having spent time in Wyoming this past week... cowboys are alive and well... listening to them talking seems amazing, talking about the 'cowboy code', herding cattle, lassooing... it's really removed from our experiences...

...now to the title of today's blog...

Being heavier they assign you more heavy set horses... well, yesterday Trixie was lovely... and aside from climbing up the side of the hill initially, the ride was very sedate... well, that cannot be said for today's ride!!! It was through the Shoshone forest and up and down hill sides and through little creeks... all on a 'fat ass' horse called Larry... who due to the fact that he was so big, the muscles at the front, that keep the saddle in place were non existent... he was just round... and his saddle kept slipping... indeed when we stopped for the lunch cookout, he was able, in the hour to get his saddle loose and over his head and off!!! This did not bode well for the return trip, as it was seriously up and down hill... well... true to form, the saddle was slipping, and I kept trying to correct it... and then we were going down this steep embankment and I felt it slipping off... and when it slips... it goes... I had to manoeuvre my right leg out of the stirrup rather swiftly to get off other wise the end result could have been different... at that point I decided that I would walk the rest of the way back... only to be told, "No Mam... that's too far... you have to get back on the horse!!!" Well - I did... but I was not happy...

Seriously had we done that ride yesterday, with Fat Ass Larry, I would not have done the second ride today... but, it's all part of the adventure... and all's well that end's well!!!

So this afternoon on getting back to the ranch - it was a relaxing bath... and a nap... surprisingly, not everything hurts...

Ride 'em Cowboy!!!

***Miles travelled today: 9 miles - on a horse!!!

***Total Miles:

***States travelled through: Still in Wyoming...

Okay - so today we had breakfast - cowboy style... although not totally... everywhere we go one of the options for breakfast is 'Biscuits and Gravy'... really??? What are biscuits and gravy??? Salty scones and white creamy, cheesy gravy with either bacon or sausage thrown in... I've managed to avoid it for eight weeks - but the resident chef here has guaranteed that his special recipe will convert me to a cowboy breakfast... obviously the vegetarian in the party has successfully avoided this delicacy!!!

We then went on a four hour horse ride into the canyon... Jay's horse was called 'Plymouth' and mine was called 'Trixie'... the ride was fantastic and the views were lovely...

Our wrangler was a real live 'cowgirl'... we had a cowboy cook out mid way through the ride... before making our way back to the ranch...

there were a number of us on the ride... but the best were the two teenagers who came complete with I-pods!!!

On getting back to the ranch we just had a really relaxing afternoon... before joining a lovely American couple who are also staying at the ranch for wine on the patio and then dinner... they are both retired and were real interesting to debate with...

...we are now off to bed - as it is another early rise tomorrow as we are off for another ride and cookout...

...we have included a few interesting photos - other than the scenic ones... including the things that we needed for our ride (hat, sunscreen, lip ice and sunglasses)... and of course the best photo - the bear repellent!!!

We have added the website above for the ranch - have a look... it's really 'ranchy'!!! (not raunchy... that's a different place!!!)

What makes a real cowboy?

***Miles travelled today: Don't know - again... didn't write them down!!

***Total Miles:

***States travelled through: Stayed in Wyoming...

So - we left Jackson early this morning - we had packed up and we were in the car by 07h30!!! and went off to the 'Mangy Moose' again for breakfast - where we also finally took the opportunity to write up some post cards!!! The cards were finally posted - at Moose Post Office... where Jay actually got to 'frank' them herself - as she was asked if she wanted to 'Moose 'em!!!' So the cards that have been sent today will have been franked by Jay!!!

We left the Grand Teton National Park... unfortunately the skies were really cloudy - so we did not get any more of the reflections opportunities... but we stopped off at Jackson lake lodge, which is where the first few photos are taken... we drove through the eastern side of Yellowstone National Park -although we weren't looking for adventure or photo opportunities as we were needing to make our way to the 'Dude Ranch'... where we finally arrived at about 15h30... we are in for an interesting few days!!! (...although there are a couple of photos, including a hot bed lake, as well as one out of the windscreen as we were travelling through the Red Rock Canyon... we have a few days in Yellowstone early next week in which to explore!!!)

We have a serious cabin in the woods... and Jay has bought every single mosquito repellent on the market... including... wait for it... a bandana with insect repellent incorporated into the fabric... which can last up to 70 washes!!! But knowing Jay - it is a bandana with class...

...anyway - we have just had a cook out - done by the chef and the ranch wranglers or cowboys and we have been sitting chatting to a couple of real cowboys... one, the chef, who is actually called Cody... is 71 years old... and talks about his mother teaching him how to ride when he was four... he was telling us the difference in the cowboys as apparently dependent on the state they originate from makes them different kinds of cowboys... although he was insistent that the 'true' cowboy is one from Wyoming!!!

We are off on a four hour ride tomorrow... and dependent on how ones butt may feel at the end of it - we are also booked on for the next day as well... we shall have to wait and see... but we are looking forward to it...

... one of the wranglers is outside at the moment showing off his roping skills and Jay is having a look see!!!

...so we are off for an early night tonight... and cannot wait for tomorrow!!!

Making the Moose outta life!!!

***Miles travelled today: 89

***Total Miles: 5614

***States travelled through: Still in Wyoming

As we were not able to upload yesterday evening - this entry is for Friday 25th of June...

Gosh, yet another week is flying by which means there are only a few weeks left to try and experience ‘as much as possible’ ! And so today, was no exception to the rule we seem to have created for ourselves....

Our day can literally be divided into a ‘day of two halves’ - not a ‘morning’ and ‘afternoon’ kinda day, but more like a ‘mountain’ and ‘water’ divide (with stuff happening in the middle). But before we got started, we discovered this swanky-alternative breakfast pad called the ‘Mangy Moose’ in Teton Village, right at the foot of Rendezvous Point. This Point is a mountain which forms part of the ‘Teton Range’ and compared to yesterday’s Snow King Mtn, it stands as a giant, tall and looming. It is also where experienced alpiners /skiers like to go on holiday and play ‘Russian Roulette’ with their lives. My goodness (!), the exhilaration they must feel as they throw themselves off that mountain’s edge ..... it could almost ‘make me’ want to learn to Love the cold and learn to ski (Linz laughed earlier saying ‘yeah right’). Anyway, it’s good when you don’t plan absolutely everything as the ‘top of that mountain’ is where we decided to head. To say the views were phenomenal is merely an understatement, the word ‘panoramic’ doesn’t fit and to say that our much loved ‘Table Mountain’ doesn’t compare – still leaves it unexplained – and so I’ll just have to leave it that way as this time, I’m completely stumped for words [even Portuguese ones – and for those of you who may have ‘clever’ comments about this, please use this opportunity to show some decorum and refrain =). ] When up there, we walked and explored the paths available to non-skiers until we’d worked up enough appetite for hot chocolate and Nutella waffles which we ate in the snow - who could resist ?

After about four hours, we decided it was time to move on and so, we made our way to Jenny Lake in the Teton National Park as Linz was looking for some photographic opportunities (mirror reflections). Before getting there, we came upon this ‘tour group’ who were looking into the trees and naturally, one has to go find out (I wouldn’t have been so impressed if they’d been Twitchers) and there it was....... Moose !!!! Absolutelyfantasticfabarooney and wowser ! Our first moose and even though it was a young one (almost doesn’t really count as it’s not the big kahuna but is a great start), it didn’t run away but walked past us by about 3metres. We just stood stock still and even stopped taking pics. That was the first moose as it’s mate was just down the road in a pond merrily eating willow.

We finally arrived at the lake and armed with lunch, we made our way to the boat pier as this would provide the opportunity for those pics. Well, that wasn’t quite how it turned out as Linz suggested we get into a canoe/kayak and head out. Well Ann, whilst you’re reading this – you alone will know how my heart suddenly did ‘triple-time’ and that the idea of kayaking in deep choppy water fills me with more dread than ‘throwing myself off a mountain’. It ‘just had to be done’–Linz was anxious yesterday when we took the Alpine Slide down Snow King (because it’s fast and downhill) and today was my day.... And so, we headed out into ‘Jenny-Choppy-Windy-Deep-Lake’ with Linz at the back of the canoe, steering the direction and me, at the front, conning myself that I ‘was just sitting on the rower back at Fitness First in Poole’. After about an hour of rowing and relaxing (so much fun although peppered with moments of anxiety with me shouting, ‘Linz, steer the bl**dy boat, we’re heading the wrong way!’ - which for me was towards the middle of the lake), we ‘anchored’ (Linz added this was tying our rope to a tree stump sticking out the water) and had lunch. It took us another hour to make our way back and by this stage, we were ‘old hands’ at it ! Who’da thought ?

Our ‘easy’ day didn’t end here but I realise I’ve chatted on....Just to close this off -Linz did her first ‘off the road’ driving today and coupled with today’s events, is now fast asleep. I’m heading that way too as we’re leaving early tomorrow and making our way to Cody where we’ll be staying at the Bill Cody Dude Ranch - Linz already has her hat and old boots, now all we need are the horses.

Up high and down low...

***Miles travelled today: ...will add these tomorrow...

***Total Miles:

***States travelled through: Still in Wyoming...

We decided last night that we would get up early this morning and go in search of moose and elk!!! well - when the alarm clock went off at 05h00 - we kinda had second thoughts - but we got up... and by 05h20 we were in the car and on our way to the National Park - we were so early there wasn't even anyone on the gate to take our money... (or see our National Parks card!!!)

We saw an amazing sunrise and the pinks on the snow capped mountains was just lovely... we did a three hour drive - and it reminded us of being in the Kruger National park in South Africa... when you go out in search of wild life... well - we were fortunate enough to see a few female elk... although clearly they are not as impressive as the males with their antlers... (although we found out later when we went to the visitors centre that all the males have migrated into the hills until September when they come into the valley to find themselves a 'harem') - unfortunately we didn't see any other animals this morning...

We also saw some amazing reflections in one of the rivers - which we have also included as one of today's photos...

After breakfast we went off to the scenic chairlift... which takes you up to the top of Snow King Mountain... which must be phenomenal when it is all covered in snow... the view coming down this mountain... looking towards the Tetons... complete with feet, gives an impression of 'just how high we were' - with just a little bar for safety!!! In reading about Jackson, we learned there was an Alpine Slide - which we 'just had' to do!!! This is no doubt the closest to the luge that we will ever do... I had some serious doubts about coming down the mountain on a little tray... with just a stick to make you stop... but when we got to the top there were children as young as six going down on their own... so I just had to do it!!!

After this we finally got some postcards written - whilst sitting in a 'Dairy Queen'... killing time...

This afternoon we did a 'River Float' along the Snake River... this was just amazing...

Note: it was a float - not a white water rapid chase... although Nason (the man at the oars) asked if the people on the raft wanted to go over some rapids, which we all did - and so towards the end of the journey - he did!!! Jay and another guy were riding 'shot gun' up front' and I was sitting behind her... well - after the first serious wave that drenched Jay and the guy next to her - she ducked... and so the second wave drenched me!!! whilst doing the river float we saw lots of bird life - including a few Bald Eagles and Pelicans...

(We have posted the photo of Nason just for you Mom - so that you can see that not all the American guys look hairy and grizzly - although he seems to have a bit of growth going on!!!)

We have had such a fantastic day - we are now back at the hotel absolutely exhausted... so we are having an early night...

We are still here tomorrow - before venturing off to the Dude Ranch on Saturday - which will be a totally different experience!!!

From one extreme to another

***Miles travelled today: 314

***Total Miles: 5443

***States travelled through: Stayed in Wyoming

Having left Casper this morning (by 07h30 !!!!!), we decided we'd stop by the 'IHOP' for breakfast ('International House of Pancakes' - none of this healthy granola and yoghurt stuff today).....They were so BIG that we each needed a 'take-out' box which was great as it doubled up for lunch between us ! Anyway, we were soon on our way as we had mileage to cover.

What we didn't know is that the scenery would be so vast in its appearance and it's temperature. En route to Jackson, the town at the bottom of the Grand Teton National Park (a mountain range that is part of the Rockies); we passed the flat plains of Wyoming where boredom set in and brain dysfunction occurred. These plains were endless, but had the occasional dilapidated and deserted restaurant along the side of the road (hence our first pic). By mid-morning, the scenery had begun to change and we passed through an area called 'Hell's Acre' where it looked similar to the Badlands, but on a minor scale. Native Americans used to drive their Buffalo here in order to slaughter them. We watched a couple of climbers making their way towards a cave and had we not been pressed for time (and dressed appropriately for canyoning), I'm sure I would've been able to twist Linz's arm into trying it out (Linz is sitting here saying, " I don't Think so!")

As an aside, we discovered this 'Country/Soft Rock Music Station' and it certainly makes country music sound good, especially as we are singing at the top of our voices as we are road-triping across the 'land'. The 'land' appeared quite magical as it changed it's colour and form (if you didn't know rocks/mountains could morph themselves, well, they do in Wyoming!) Although we haven't included all the pics, there was a kaleidoscope of red, purple, orange and yellow - all set against the blue sky which met the green grass in the distance. Added to this vista, we could see the snow-capped Rockies in the distance. Beautiful.

We're exploring Grand Teton tomorrow and so the pics taken today of the Tetons, won't be uploaded as we'll have loads to share with you tomorrow and the next day. We think the best bit of today was finding a lake, seriously off the beaten track that rested in the valley of the mountains.....we couldn't quite believe there was still snow on the ground in June and much of the lake was still frozen. The snow was a perfect cooler for the Bud Light Limes that Linz has taken a liking to and the backdrop, a perfect place to have our picnic ! This spot has to be one of the most picturesque places we have seen.

We're now in Jackson and arrived too late for a rodeo so shall catch up on much needed sleep.

By, the way - we also saw a falcon swoop down in-front of the car but we don't have a pic for you cos it didn't stop !

Susie - you need to find a place called JACKSON on your map (and we'll be scouting for moose, elk and bald eagles tomorrow)

Double D... (Devil's and Downpours...)

***Miles travelled today: 259

***Total Miles: 5131

***States travelled through: South Dakota into Wyoming...

We left Spearfish Canyon early this morning - and in so doing - we left behind the first thing of our eight week journeying thus far... the battery charger for the camera... we think that's pretty good going!!! and - we have already stopped at a Walmart to replace it!!!

We did a bit of a detour off our path this morning as we wanted to go to Devil's Tower National Monument... (initially made a national monument because Teddy Roosevelt thought it looked good! This may sound facetious - but it was already a sacred ground to many... and thus monumental to people for many generations before...) as can be seen by the photo's... it is really quite awesome...

Jay went for a long walk around the base of the tower, whilst I stayed and listened to a park ranger talk about the significance of the tower - to many people - for many different things... apparently there is nothing else like it in the world, and they get about 5000 rock climbers a year from all over the world... there were none climbing today as there is a voluntary climbing ban through June due to the fact that June is a very sacred time to the Native Americans and there are many sacred events around the tower...

...we took many photos and did quite a bit of exploring - before making our way further westwards... although needing to detour Southwards somewhat to get onto the route that we needed... so for those using pins or stickers following our journey on a big map, don't suddenly wonder why we have gone south!!!

On passing through into Wyoming the scenery changed once again... and there was just miles and miles of nothingness... until we hit an area that was covered with oil rigs...

The weather had been pretty good most of the day - however by late afternoon the sky was getting quite dark, and we watched some serious clouds forming... within minutes of checking into the hotel... it started to pelt hail stones... and there had been weather warnings about tornadoes... the storm that we had been watching brewing was in fact a tornado... see the pic of the clouds/funnel over the hotel... the storm only lasted an hour or so - and the tornado died down and moved on...

Suzi - we are in CASPER tonight... so you will need another sticker on your map!!!

(Sorry folks - no pics for today - as there seems to be a problem with uploading - however we will add them tomorrow...)

off the beaten path...

***Miles travelled today: ...will add tomorrow - as we forgot to write them down - but it was more than 40!!!

***Total Miles:

***States travelled through: Still in South Dakota...

So - after breakfast, where we decided on our route for today... carried over from yesterday... with an addition - as it was referenced at the Pow-Wow last night... (A place that is sacred to Native Americans called Bear Butte - pronounced 'beaut' - not to be confused with 'Bare Butt' as we have been pronouncing it!!!) we were on our way...

We killed some time on the interstate - before going up to 'Bear Butte'... where we met a woman who was making prayer ties... and I asked her what they were symbolising... she explained how the different colours represented different things and were also representative of the four corners of the earth... on thanking her for her time, she said, "You were moved to ask the question..." which I though was just a really amazing way of putting something...

We have included a photo of the butte, and what you might see is the outline of a Native American lying on his back - with a big tummy - or maybe his hands crossed over his tummy...

We then made our way to Deadwood, a town made famous during the mining years... but also a town famous for all the wild west debauchery!!! We visited the cemetery where 'Wild Bill' and 'Calamity Jane' are buried.

Then we carried on to Spearfish Canyon - which was just amazing... we have included some pics of the afternoon drive...

Suzi - your sticker for today needs to go on SPEARFISH CANYON...

...tomorrow we are putting some more miles behind us as we head further west towards Grand Teton...